In the half-dozen times I've been back to Cummari, I've drawn four large doodles on the walls

By, Dana Ter

My first introduction to Sicily was coming from the mainland by sea. It was September 2021 and Italy was the first new country I visited after a year and a half of not traveling. I booked an 8-hour train journey from Naples to Catania, not knowing that at the end of Italy, the train detaches itself from the railway tracks and jiggles onto a gigantic ferry. The lights went out and there was a lot of jiggling about, then an announcement in Italian.

I noticed several passengers leaving their seats and walking up some stairs. I followed them up many flights and at the top, I was greeted by a majestic sight of endless blue! I had a facemask on, but I could still breathe the salty air - it was my first time seeing the Mediterranean and what a glorious way to arrive in Sicily!

I booked a stay at Cummari because it was a coliving space and I needed a place with a washing machine to wash my clothes after weeks of travel. I wasn't expecting to discover a vibrant community, to have meaningful conversations with my housemates and to form deep bonds with amazing women. Michelle was there to greet me at the old coliving house in Catania - a magical place with pretty pink walls - and I knew right away that I was going to have a wonderful time. She was on a balcony talking in Italian to the neighbor from across the street, who was on her balcony too. The neighbor happened to be a housekeeper and coincidentally, Michelle was looking for a housekeeper and she immediately hired her.

I love the randomness of Sicily. Even a walk to the beach can be a quirky experience. You might notice a crumbling, derelict building, but peek inside and there's the most elaborate piece of artwork on the ceiling. Or you might stumble across a friendly fruit vendor selling mangoes, dragonfruit, custard apple and other tropical fruits I love.

In the half-dozen times I've been back to Cummari, I've drawn four large doodles on the walls, all inspired by my time on this charming island. The first three are in the old house. The first is of our building, with Cummari women singing blissfully and freely from the balcony. In the second mural, my little characters return for a happy day at the beach. In the third mural, they're eating yummy Sicilian sweets, gelato dripping everywhere.

When Michelle reopened Cummari in Riposto, I was thrilled because it's less than a five-minute walk to the beach. Like with the old house, Michelle poured her heart and soul in the new house and it heaves with character. I love all the little touches that make it a home, from the old photos to the antique lamps. During the interim between the closing of the old house and the opening of the new, Michelle kept all of us women connected through a WhatsApp chat so we never lost that sense of community.

Riposto is a lovely fishing village with delicious seafood. I went on a sailing trip in Riposto a few years ago, and they prepared a wonderful meal for us on the boat, which we enjoyed with the snow-capped Mt. Etna in the background. My fourth doodle is inspired by that feeling of simple, pure happiness of being out at sea. My little characters return for a boat trip in Riposto and they're happily enjoying their time at sea, sipping prosecco, eating Sicilian desserts and splashing about carefree.

Dana with her 4th doodle at the new Cummari

Staying at Cummari taught me the importance of female friendships. We might all have our own lives, but when we spend quality time with each other as friends, there's something very nourishing and restorative about that - something like the feeling I get from swimming in the sea. I've always been cautious and introverted, but I've become good friends with every single woman who's walked into Cummari's doors over the past four years. I've met up with my ex-housemates in London, Lisbon, Amsterdam, Brussels, Stockholm and New York City (see below) and we all still talk regularly!

Cummari and Sicily will always hold a special place in my heart. There is something truly wondrous about it. You can be yourself and even simple things like swimming in the sea and having heartfelt conversations are all you need when you're here.